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A closer look at those new K2 frames

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    A closer look at those new K2 frames

    Moved my K2 frames to my Adapts today and changed the rockering settings. Took some photos for us Blade Nerds:

    From the factory. Something weird I noticed is that one of the pair of frames I have had the hex/allen key holes on the outside of the frame. Part of the genius of the "locking axels" or whatever you want to call them (you only need one allen key to loosen/tighten axels) is that you can have the "locking" side on the side of the frame you grind on.
    So what this means is that from the factory the frames are weirdly set up; one of your feet is going to be grinding on the hex/allen key side of the axels. Image for illustration:


    So how's the factory rockering? Having skated the frames I knew it was a very flat setup. I was surprised to find that the inner wheels were rockered out from the h-block and the outer wheels were rockered down. With all the wheels the same size, this should mean that the outer wheels are touching but the inner wheels are a mm or so off the floor, but as all wheels were touching I guess the holes in the frame are at slightly different heights to account for this. This is therefore the standard flat setup for the frames, and anything else is rockered:


    Original rockering close-up:


    Frame detail pics:




    So how did I end up rockering them? Well, the front wheel forwards and up, and the rear wheel backwards and down. This gave me a slight rocker on the heel and a slightly more pronounced rocker on the front. This setup felt the best indoor, we'll see how it feels outside on the street/at a park.


    Rockering detail, front:


    Rockering detail, rear (yes, that does make it rockered, even though it looks like the rear wheel should sit lower than the inner wheel. These are odd frames...):


    Final result:

    #2
    but how do they skate?
    Yours truly,

    Metric F. Tonne

    Comment


      #3
      Haha, yeah... Setting these up the way I wanted them took about four times longer than regular frames.
      1. First of all you have two different kinds of spacers - the ones with round holes for the non-locking side of the axel and the ones with a hexagonal hole for the locking side of the axel. So you have to make sure you have divide the spacers half-and-half between the two sides of the frame.
      2. Secondly, it's kinda tricky to gauge the orientation of the spacer... On the first frame I set up I made a mistake; for one of the axels the two spacers were mis-aligned (i.e. one was at a slightly different rotation to the other). I didn't notice this until I tightened everything up and found that one wheel didn't quite spin properly. Would be easily overlooked if you're not paying attention (and taking photos).
      3. You actually need a guide to get a flat setup. Most people would probably orient the spacers all the same way (e.g. all pointing down) and expect that to be flat... Nope, that's rockered. Ok, so inside ones up? Nope, that's anti-rockered. lolwut

      These are advanced frames, you need to know what you're doing, and you can get great results. I don't need to spend hours shopping for wheels to get the right size combinations anymore. Guaranteed if one shop has UC wheels in 57 they won't have 55, only 56, 58 and 60... And then the max wheel size is 58 and bleurgh.

      I like these frames because they are the only aggressive frames with serious rockering options that can be skated flat (rules out Slimines) and they take a 60mm wheel.

      Hopefully these will become available separately, not just bundled with the Unnatural.

      Improvements: they need to make that groove less deep. It's too deep.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Metric F. Tonne View Post
        but how do they skate?
        I've skated them once on a skatepark rail and they felt good. No wheel bite on quite a fat rail. Slid well and the groove felt good. I wouldn't want the groove to get any deeper though, so I think I will stick to rails and coping with these. A few ledge sessions and they would probably be ruined.

        Outside of grinding performance, the frame feels solid with no flex. Very reponsive and strong. The metal spacers help the wheels spin freely.

        The build quality on these is great. Highest quality aggressive frame (with the exception of Kizer Elements) that I have handled. Definitely the highest quality poured frame I have held. Good quality plastic without mold marks or warping. Wheels fit tightly and precisely between spacers.

        Comment


          #5
          is everyone at k2 autistic or something?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by joshdamnit View Post
            is everyone at k2 autistic or something?
            I lol'd

            Comment


              #7
              Some info from either the guys at K2 or someone who is trying way too hard to troll me.

              Originally posted by sk8engineer
              hi Andreas, thanks for writing to us at K2 abt the Unnaturals, really glad that u enjoy them. we do scan the forums to pick up on stuff, some things we can apply them, other times our hands are tied.
              anyhow, i wanted to address the factory set up of the wheels on the frames. Out of the factory we need to have the screw/tightening side to be on the right (back of boot facing u). this is because as wheels spin forward, its spinning in the direction of the screw getting tighten. this is a requirement out of the factory, if a user chooses to put the screw on the left side, its their call.
              u'll also notice that the frames have 1 side that exposes the axles, and 1 side is protected. base on your preference, u can choose to u want to slide on the axles.
              ideally the hex head is on the protected side. But if the user does shred the key hole, they can always use a 3mm square key for the axle shaft side.
              the center 2 frame spacers have a different orientation cos we wanted to minimize the distance between the wheel well and the wheel, so on a smaller wheel the axle position will be closer to the H-block. on a bigger wheel, the axle position is outwards. some of the skaters have been able to squeeze 65s in there with some modification. in this case, u are at the lowest stance height possible.
              anyhow, hope this gives u a better understanding why its more complex that it seems like it should be!

              cheers,
              sk8engineer

              Comment


                #8
                So much wut. No way that is someone from K2.
                How many skateboarders does it take to change a lightbulb? One, but it'll take him 100 tries.

                Be-Car
                http://www.vimeo.com/user2760984/videos
                http://www.youtube.com/user/billybobblader?feature=mhee

                Comment


                  #9
                  interesting... mind taking a flick of the side of the axel that is not allen key? im curious to see what he means by '3mm square key' and what you mean by round hole spacers

                  I understand everything else he told you, if he didn't type the way a 14 year old girl texts it would be much more clear. having to ship the frames so the rotation of the wheel wouldn't loosen the axel makes sense, but seems a bit much for rollerblades. we have to adhere to that in aviation with either reverse threads / cotter keys / safety wire. K2 taking that into consideration is almost impressive.

                  frames with crazy rockering options and that grind best at a park sound like exactly the thing mushroom guys would use their input for though, right?
                  Last edited by 4 x 4; 03.05.2016, 21:04.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 4 x 4 View Post
                    '3mm square key' and ... round hole spacers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      here u go: "3mm square key' and ... round hole spacers"

                      Comment

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